Reproof a Tent in Three Easy Steps
The main cause of leaks in any tent is the deterioration of manufacturer treatments to the tent’s seams, the DWR coating, and/or the waterproof polyurethane or silicone coating.
Before setting out to restore your tent’s waterproofing capacity by renewing any of the above treatments, it’s best to clean the tent with cold water, mild soap, and a soft sponge. This will make sure there are no contaminants or corrosives (muck, sand, sap, animal scat, suncream, etc.) that might hinder the effectiveness of reproofing.
After leaving the tent to dry (ideally on a line), then you’re ready to get down to the business of reproofing.
Reapply the Polyurethane or Silicone Coating
Polyurethane (PU) coatings used in tent floors and flysheets are prone to chemical degradation, meaning that the PU coating simply dissolves over time. This is usually discovered when the coating starts flaking on the tent’s interior.
While silicone coatings are far more durable and reproofing is rarely necessary, if you have subjected the tent to a fair amount of rough treatment you may begin to notice smaller leaks that can be eliminated by retreating the fly and flooring.
1. Collect your kit: a rag, rubbing alcohol/surgical spirit, and the correct type of tent sealant (a silicone sealant for silicone-treated fabric and a PU sealant for polyurethane-coated fabrics).
2. Lay your tent’s rainfly and floor out on a flat surface and remove the flaking coating by scrubbing it off gently with the rubbing alcohol and rag (use an abrasive sponge if the rag isn’t working).
3. Apply the new sealant as directed in the product instructions (check out our guide to the best tent waterproofing products.
4. Wash your hands thoroughly—all tents use flame-retardant chemicals that have been linked to several damaging health effects.
5. Leave the new coating to dry and “cure” for a minimum of 24 hours before stowing your tent back in its stuff sack.
Renew Your Tent’s DWR Coating
A tent’s DWR (Durable Water Repellent) coating is what allows it to shed water upon impact and provides the first line of defense against precipitation. This coating is less durable than waterproof PU or silicone coatings and usually requires renewal after every 10-15 outings. Thankfully, however, the process is very simple.
If you notice that rainwater is no longer beading up on your rainfly:
1. Collect your kit: a rag or towel, a bucket of tepid water, and a bottle of waterproofing spray (like Gear Aid Revivex or Nikwax Tent and Gear SolarProof).
2. Pitch your tent and spray down the fly with water.
3. Spray the waterproof treatment evenly over the rainfly’s exterior.
4. Leave the tent to dry thoroughly before returning it to its stuff sack.
Reseal Your Tent’s Seams
The seams in a tent are its greatest points of weakness, mainly due to the fact that they have hundreds of tiny needle holes created in the process of stitching two pieces of fabric together. If you discover your tent has a leak, therefore, this is the first place to check.
While most tents have sealed seams, the tape or treatment used to create the “seal” requires occasional renewal over the tent’s lifespan. Here’s how it’s done:
1. Collect your kit: a rag, rubbing alcohol/surgical spirit, seam sealant (silicone sealant for silicone-treated fabric and PU sealant for polyurethane-coated fabrics).
2. Make sure your tent is completely dry and the seams free of dirt.
3. Pitch your rainfly inside out or lay it out on a flat surface with the underside exposed.
4. Gently remove any flaking tape, leaving intact tape in place.
5. Wipe down each seam with your rag and rubbing alcohol.
6. Apply the new seam sealant to the seams.
7. Allow the sealant to dry completely before packing your tent away (usually 10-12 hours).